Detaljeret dato: 2008-05-24
Leder: Søren Smidt
Arrangør: Explore Himalaya (Søren Smidt)
Leder: Søren Smidt
Deltagere: Henrik Kristensen
Sirdar: Serap Jangbu
På Henrik Kristensens utrolige Seven Summit verdenstur (en spændende business case), med Søren Smidt som leder bestiges Everest via SØ graten d. 24. maj 2008 tidlig morgen.
Her lidt fra hjemmesiden:
"From Henrik,
We are still in BC. This night we go up the Icefall and then to C1.
C3 location is a bit lower this year about 7100m, we have expected 7500m. Our plan was to take oxygen while sleeping in C3, but since is lower this year we are not sure. We will see how our conditions are when we get up there. The plan is to take oxygen from C3-C4-Summit.
The way we calculate the oxygen use is following:
There is about 270 Bar in one 4 liter oxygen bottle here in BC. The pressure (Bar) get lower with the higher altitude, also lower temperature has influence on this.
This means there is 1080 Liter (270 Bar * 4 Liter) in one bottle (B).
When we go up from C3 we plan to use a flow rate of 3 L/M (Minutes), we will adjust the flow rate due to our condition, the max flow is 4 L/M, but I don't think we can consume this.
Per hour this gives 180 L/H (60 minutes * 3 L/M).
This gives 6 Hours per bottle (1080 Liter / 180 L/H).
With a flow rate of 4 L/M there is 4.5 hour per bottle. We expect with a slow pace, it will take about 13 hours from C4 (South Col) to Summit and return. So there should be enough of oxygen.
When we sleep the flow rate is much lower about 0.5 - 1 L/M.
There are a lot of opinions about which flow rate should be used. I think most expeditions will use 2 L/M per client. They normally calculate the oxygen need by using 2 L/M. We have from the beginning used 4 L/M for our calculation - we want to be on the safe site.
Here is the expected oxygen use:
C3 Henrik and Soeren sleep 2B
C3 - C4 Henrik and Soeren 2B
C4 - SUMMIT Henrik and Soeren 8B and 2B for sleep in South Col
C4 - SUMMIT Sherpas 12B and 2B for sleep in South Col
This gives in total 28B, we have in stock 27B so we are one down. I think we will by 4-5B more bottles.
See you and please pray for good weather."
Everest Summit 8850m, seven down, one to go
25 May, 08 - 12:56
From Henrik,
Yesterday at 21:00 we left C4 for the Summit. We arrived at the summit around 07:00. What a night, clear and almost no wind.
The weather forecast wasn't to good, there where predicted high wind and wind chill about -35. So before we left yesterday, we wasn't to sure.
More information about Everest wil follow.
We expect to be back in BC in a few days.
See you...."
Bøger:
Seven Summits verdensrekord. Søren Smidt 2008
Web:
www.7-summits.dk/
http://henrikkristiansen.dk/om/klatre-cv
Topfilm: www.humanedgetech.com/expedition/7summitEv/videos/EverestSummit2008.WMV
